Women requesting jet-black eyeliner may be in for a disappointment if we, as practitioners, are not honest with them.
When I get this request from a woman sitting in front of me expecting the same black as her black liquid eyeliner she painted on, I explain that this depth of black is not guaranteed and more than likely, although black, her tattooed eyeliner will be a softer shade of black.
I explain what she is wearing is painted on TOP of her skin and isn’t altered by her complexion like the pigment is when it’s placed INTO her skin. I explain that her complexion will play its part in how black her eyeliner heals.
I tell my clients to picture a professional basketball court. Most of the men have tattoos and you can see on the various complexions, the many shades of black. Some tattoos appear quite black, some are more blue, and some even black-gray.
Then, I explain how Face Inks, Black Noir, has a warm base which is great for preventing bluing. However, each complexion will affect the depth of black, differently.
Yes, I have many clients that return, and their eyeliner is quite black, but I do not make this guarantee. But, I do know this client will be very happy for many years to come but I am honest about how black she may heal.
When I want to intensify my Black Noir I add a few drops of Onyx Black C, Face Inks carbon ink, to my Black Noir. This works beautifully on thicker or more olive tones, but I hesitate to add carbon for elderly or extremely fair complexions, since they typically run more risk of migration.
Straight Onyx Black C can be used ONLY between the TOP eyelashes and NEVER up on the eyelid or on the bottom eyelashes. It is carbon ink and you are playing Russian roulette. You may or may not see a migration but why would you gamble? Just add your few drops to Black Noir for the actual eyeliner on the eyelid and for the bottom eyeliner. Now, your frame will be really deep and will look amazing.
Face Inks has several shades of blacks. Elderly women or very fair women may not want or need the intensity of adding the carbon.
Face Inks also has a color called, Onyx Black …just Onyx Black. Onyx Black is deliberately formulated to have a blue base and is gorgeous on fair, blue-eyed blondes or fair women with silver hair.
Onyx Black CI is half and half, iron oxide and carbon. It heals soft and leans more toward grayish black.
Black Noir is our blackest black and then I add the 2-drops Onyx Black C. Another favorite, of our trainers, a few drops of Onyx Black C with Almost Black.
I feel compelled to educate my clients, so they don’t go elsewhere and experience a migration from someone deciding to gamble with straight carbon up on their eyelids. I explain the black tribal tattoos they see are inks that cannot be used around the eyes, EVER!
I have always found honesty was the best policy when discussing eyeliner, too. Your clients will appreciate it and stay with you for the long-term. We welcome any questions or comments on this article.
– Rose Marie Beauchemin-Verzella, CMI, CPCP