The Hidden Power Of Color
June 12, 2022
Regardless of how long you have been practicing, and especially if you are new to the profession, you will encounter a client that can’t agree on a shape and insists your eyebrow drawing isn’t quite right. You draw, erase, and draw again several times and you just can’t seem to make them happy.
Meanwhile, the clock is ticking, and you surely don’t want to get behind, because that will make your entire day miserably stressful. We can all agree this is maddening!
Your intuition can play a big part in helping you read your client and their reservations but remember, you can always ask them just to be sure.
Let’s look at some of the possibilities that may be the problem of her not loving your brow drawing.
Problem: Old habits die hard, and this new shape is not what she is in the habit of seeing on her face, even though it is beautifully executed, and even if her old brow habit was atrocious.
Solution: Once I realize this is the case, I will explain the following. First, their facial shape. For instance…Your face is a triangular shape, simply meaning your temporal plate, across your brows, is broader than your jawline. To create the perfect balance, for you, I will start the front of your brows a bit outside the inner corner of your eyes to narrow your temporal area. Then, I’ll place the arches of your brows, right outside your iris, as this also creates balance for your facial shape and end your brows in the typical location of lining up with the corner of your nostril with the corner of your eyes.
I give my client a professional summary as to WHY I created this shape. Once I explain why, it reinforces trust that I am the professional and this has been customized just for her face. This has worked for me, like a charm.
Is it 100%? No, but 98%.
Problem: If you hear your client say, I’m afraid they will be too dark.
Solution: Be sure to reinforce how conservative you will be with her, and you fully intend to respect her fears. Your bedside manner is critical in reducing her fears.
Problem: Another possibility may be the fear of the permanence of these new brows.
Solution: I explain how light I am going to make them, so I have wiggle room in darkening them, or if she wants or making them, fuller on the touch up visit.
Problem: You have tried to flush out her deepest fears or reservations and nothing is working toward getting her more comfortable.
Solution: Take a stance! Literally, take a stance!
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Your body language has to be firm but not aggressive. I may glance, and I mean a short glance, at my watch and then stand with my hands folded in front of me while telling her that I have another appointment that must be taken on time. If she can not get comfortable, perhaps, it’s best for her to reschedule.
Now, look…we both know, that is not the best solution financially, but a desperate one that may have to be made, on a rare occasion. We both know, you can never make up that money. NEVER! Wherever you put her in your schedule makes no difference. You have lost this time you allotted her. If you find you have moved the arch, back and forth and the fronts in and out and you are not even getting close to making her happy, let her leave, or risk her being your worst nightmare. It is simply not worth it.
I let me clients I wont start until they are happy and agree on the brow shape.
Do not sacrifice your other clients for this person! It is not fair. You MUST respect your next client’s appointment time. You can even ask the less-than-happy client to return at the end of your day but be sure not to indicate that you do not intend to take the rest of your evening trying to make her happy!
Problem: This client is a time-sucker, in every aspect of her life. When a client can’t explain the issue with your drawing, gets up and down several times, getting very close to the mirror, holds the mirror way below her face and far above her head and then her left and right profile, I am suspicious! Maybe even annoyed.
Who would look at someone from way above their head to point out their brows aren’t even. At the same time, who would be short enough, other than a small child, that would look up into one’s nostrils to point out their brows were not quite even. Once every angle has been exhausted, if she is not ready and still stalling and just can’t put her finger on it…….
Solution: I take my stance! For those that have met me, I have the patience of Jobe! I truly do! If someone is about to alter my face, permanently, I would be quite apprehensive. But trust me, you will know the difference. Go to your gut. It is seldom, almost NEVER wrong.
This personality can often be abusive with your time and basically wanting to remain in your spotlight as long as possible. This personality can also ask questions that are simply time consuming, about the color choice, wanting to see it, the discomfort, the aftercare, etc. and all this was sent to her prior to her appointment.
I understand that this person may be very lonely and basically, hasn’t been touched by a human in some time, but that doesn’t give them permission to drain my every ounce of patience and energy, even before beginning the tattooing.
This is so unfair!
However, I am not finished YET!
Problem: Mapping!!! Mapping is a great tool that can assist in creating symmetry, however, it should not make any practitioner exempt from knowing and understanding facial shapes and how to alter their MAP!
I open my email daily, to find a SEA, no, make that OCEANS of the same identical eyebrows! An entire new race has been created with these identically shaped eyebrows and it simply does not flatter every single face!!! I find this so terribly disturbing.
Let’s start with this. Being able to recognize each basic facial shape: Round, Oval, Long Oval, Square, Heart, Triangle, Reverse Triangle, and UNDERSTAND the best and most flattering place for the placement of the ARCH, where the FRONT or BULB of the brows should begin, how close to the side of the nose or how close to the inner corners (canthus) of the eyes, how HIGH or how LOW the brows should be designed and how long the TAILS should be.
There is more to creating a custom eyebrow than repeatedly drawing the same mapping grid on every face.
If you are mapping a mature woman, please refrain from using the side of the nose for the start of their BULB! This can make someone mature appear angry. Maturity requires softness, so not too close and certainly, not too pointy!
Before you begin mapping, identify the facial shape and allow it to determine the placement of the arch within your Map. This will customize and greatly flatter your client as well as soften them.
Also, remember, this is PERMANENT! How many times have you seen brows tattooed too close together or too pointy? These people are stuck with this or have to suffer a removal!
I know the term SEMI-PERMANENT is used throughout EU but in these United States, it could be a dangerous term to use. Most European countries are not litigious like the US. When I taught in Spain, it was explained to me, the government required certain standards for the approval of a PMU establishment and once approved, all liabilities were held by the government. People do not sue their government.
What does Semi-Permanent even mean? All PMU fades but it doesn’t disappear. It will only take one client, in these United States who claims they were misled by the use of the term and expected their PMU to disappear. An attorney can easily challenge a practitioner that advertised it. I, personally, refrain from the use of this term.
Another way to avoid these encounters and to shorten your procedure time is to consult with your clients, prior to their appointments.
Consultation…30 minutes or less!
The next question we often receive is how long we should take for a Consultation?
Here is the scenario. Your perspective client comes into your procedure room with her paperwork filled out. I introduce myself, give a firm handshake, offer them a seat on the bed and I sit down alongside of them.
I read over their Intake Forms, notice their ethnicity for color mixing, look for any possible contraindications, fever blisters, etc. and have a conversation about anything else that stands out.
I ask what procedure they are interested in. I plan on drawing on all 3, regardless.
I notice if they are high or low maintenance and the look they will be looking to achieve. This is not a judgement but an observation of how much time I believe this client takes in the morning to do her makeup. I ask her about her lifestyle, as well.
My table is immaculate, and my pencils are sharpened. This is merely a try-on!
I begin with drawing on her brows. I am describing her facial shape as I draw, since I want her to understand these are not random brows. If you decide to Map, I recommend only use half of your lines. Otherwise, it will take far too long. Explain where and why you are placing her arches and the bulbs of her brows.
Once the brows are drawn, I go right to the eyeliner or lash enhancement. I ask how much she wears on a daily basis, not her Saturday night makeup. If she doesn’t wear eyeliner, I proceed with drawing a lash enhancement.
I avoid drawing eyeliner with a brown pencil as it gives the appearance of a Rabbit Eye or pinkish rim around the eyes. If they are warm, I use a charcoal pencil and explain how they can use a warm brown shadow but avoid the Rabbit Eyes.
If they wear glasses, I explain eyeglasses drink their eye color and a simple lash enhancement will enhance their eyes even behind their glasses. It is always a big, WOW, when I hand them the mirror.
I also explain, I’m always looking to achieve color balance in a face. If the brows are too prominent, they will walk into the room first and no one will notice their eyes or see their face as a whole. However, with a lash enhancement, their brows are now balanced, it really color balances their entire face.
Last, I draw their lips on, explaining the best shape for their face and jawline. I select a soft color as I don’t want my client startled to suddenly see a full face of makeup.
No client should ever leave your practice with less than brows and liner or lash enhancement. If they do, you are missing something in your delivery.
During this consultation, I DO NOT MIX PIGMENT OR INK COLORS! That is for the procedure. Your client should be exiting your room from a consultation in 30-minutes or less.
I ask her what procedure she would like, first, and also offer her a double procedure, to achieve the immediate color balance (with no discount!!!!!!) and then pick up her file, shake her hand once again, thank her, tell her it was so lovely to meet her and tell her I can’t wait for her appointment and walk her up to the front desk to schedule and leave her deposit.
